Connecting with the past in the Quinault River Valley
January 27, 2009
By Luke Wirkkala–
Deep within the Quinault Rainforest, time slows down. Or so it seems when you enter the “Valley of the Giants” on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula.
Here you will discover a land of clear flowing streams and waterfalls, with lush groves of old growth forest, where rainfall totals more than 100 inches every year. Moss grows thick on river rock and forest floor, and hangs low on tree branches, luminescent in the sunlight of a late afternoon. Cedar, spruce, hemlock, and Douglas fir have reached massive size here, the oldest specimens having been alive for more than a thousand years. These ancient trees now stand like guardians of the distant past, whispering memories of an age long-gone.
It is in this mystic setting that you will find Lake Quinault. Carved from the earth by a retreating glacier millennia ago, the lake was long used by the Quinault Indians for food gathering and recreation during the warmer months of the year.
The first white settlers came to the valley in the late 1880s, and within a couple of years, a pioneer named Alfred Higley began offering overnight accommodation at a two-story log cabin that he had built there. In 1894, a Hoquiam newspaper ran an article about the Higley building, calling it the “lodge at Lake Quinault.” The location quickly grew in popularity, and as road systems were improved, it became a weekend destination for the residents of nearby towns and cities.
Then in 1924, the building caught fire and burned to the ground.
Despite this setback, plans were soon in motion to construct a new hotel, which would be built on a much grander scale than its predecessor. The result was the present-day Lake Quinault Lodge, completed in 1926. Today it comprises 92 guest rooms, an indoor pool and sauna, a game room, a gift shop, and a top-notch dining room.
Just outside is the lake and the rain forest, and beyond, the Olympic Mountains. Here there are over 250 miles of hiking trails, as well as opportunities for biking, boating, bird watching, fishing, camping, and golf. The 31-mile loop road that encircles the lake provides access to several trailheads, and affords spectacular views of the forest, river, lake, and mountains.
In 1937, President Franklin D. Roosevelt visited the Olympic Peninsula and stopped at the lodge, where the possibility of creating a new national park was discussed. Less than a year later, Roosevelt signed a bill that established the Olympic National Park, a 1,400 square mile preserve that includes a portion of the Quinault Valley.
According to Mary O’Neil, an interpretive worker at the lodge, a trip to the area is something that everyone should experience at some point in their lives.
“You stumble into this valley and you see the lake, and the lodge sitting up on the shore, and you’re transported to a different universe,” she said. “There is a peace about this valley that just isn’t equaled anywhere else.”
And as the daylight fades and the logs burn slowly in the lobby fireplace of the lodge, a warm glow cast upon aged wooden timbers and dark leather furniture, you may find it hard to disagree.
Lake Quinault Lodge
The lodge is located in Quinault, WA, 44 miles north of Aberdeen. Rooms are available year round, with rates from $101 to $227 per night. Log on to www.visitlakequinault.com or call (800) 562-6672 for more information or to make reservations.
Other Accommodations
For additional lodging, dining and activities near Lake Quinault, call the visitor information center at (360) 288-0571 or log on to www.quinaultrainforest.com.
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