Wildflowers of Saddle Mountain
May 14, 2008
Story and Photos by Laurie Choate
Stand anywhere in Clatsop and Pacific counties, and Saddle Mountain will be visible in the backdrop to the south. It is not an imposing peak, as mountains go, but provides a prominent landmark to northcoast residents. Often overlooked and shunned as not worthy of the effort, Saddle Mountain is one of the north coast’s best-kept secrets. Rising 3,283 feet above sea level, it is the highest peak in Oregon’s north Coast Range.
The cool wet maritime climate of the region favors luxuriant forest growth. Sitka spruce and western hemlock predominate with Douglas fir, alder, and an occasional red cedar also present. And, it should go without saying, the abundant rainfall and moist foggy gray days encourage an abundance of mosses and ferns. Huckleberries, Oregon grape, and salal form the understory.
At higher elevations, the forests of the mountain give way to the grassy slopes and meadows at the three peaks. Deer and elk grazing and humans tramping have kept this area short-matted. But there exist in the park several areas untraveled by two and four legged creatures that have allowed many rare plant species to flourish. Saddle Mountain is also of interest to botanists as it served as a plant refuge during the last Ice Age. Species known to thrive on Saddle Mountain exist in few other locales, and have adapted and evolved enough to defy typical species descriptions. Rare and isolated, these plants have followed their own unique paths of genetic variability.
The real blessing of Saddle Mountain lies in its abundant wildflowers. Over 300 species of plants exist on the mountain, and the relatively small park can keep the wildflower hiker busy for an entire season. At lower elevations you can find abundant lilies early in the season, with white and pink fawn lilies (Erythronium oregonum and revolutum) , chocolate and tiger lilies (Fritillaria affinis and Lilium columbianum) , and the rare alp lily (Lloydia serotina) all beckoning. Later, the abundance of flowers increases, with a display of the usual (paintbrush, columbine, and monkey flower) and unusual (boykinia and bluebells).
Regional endemics for Saddle Mountain include Saddle Mountain bittercress (Cardamine pattersonii) and Saddle Mountain saxifrage (Saxifraga hitchcockiana). Perplexing on Saddle Mountain are the flowers that stop us in our tracks, and make us wonder “what are you doing here.” The rein orchids, more at home in the alpine regions of the Cascades, are magical on Saddle Mountain. Though you may find lots of trilliums, shooting stars, and fairy lanterns growing everywhere in our county, it is curious to see rarities such as nodding onions and dutchman’s breeches making their stand, as if to defy the rules of nature.
Saddle Mountain has something for every outdoors taste. If your hiking centers around how quickly you can bag a summit, Saddle Mountain will be easy, but will offer enough of a challenge to get your heart racing and lungs gasping. It can be accomplished before lunch by fit individuals; just don’t forget to look down to enjoy the flowers or look up to enjoy the views.
If, on the other hand, you tend to turn every hike into a nature walk, plan on spending an entire day. In fact, plan on returning at regular intervals throughout the summer as the wildflower show emerges throughout May, June, July, and into August. The plant diversity of the park will cause you to pause and wonder. Don’t forget to pack your camera; the photo opportunities will be numerous.
Don’t be fooled by this mountain’s gentle appearance. The trail is easy to follow and generally in good repair, but each winter’s storms create enough damage that the way can be treacherous in spots. Wear shoes meant for rough terrain, pack a sweater and windbreaker for the summit. Don’t forget to carry water; there will be none along the way, and carry a snack to munch on while enjoying the panoramic view at the top. If the hike up the steep rocky outcrop doesn’t cause you to pause for a rest, the 360-degree view from the summit will. Most days the ocean is visible, but on a clear day, the Olympics, Mt. Rainier, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Jefferson will all pierce the horizon to the east and north.
The entrance road to Saddle Mountain State Park is from US 26, eight miles northeast of Necanicum Junction. Ten primitive campsites near the trailhead are available on a first-come first-served basis. For more information, see the State Parks’ website at: http://www.oregonstateparks.org/park_197.php